I popped into Abel Tasman National Park for the day. Having overnighted at the Downs, I was ready to go at first light. Well, that was the plan, because I slept in – something I never do. So by the time the dishes were done and the bed was made, I set off a little before 9 am on a walk to Mt Evans.
Trip photos @ Panoramio
Mt Evans is the highest spot in the Abel Tasman, at 1156 m ASL, but as you start at 730 m, it is hardly a climb. The worst part is to get up the ridge from Wainui Saddle, about a 250 m short puff. The whole walk is about 8 km one way – rated at about 2.5 to 3 hours.
As usual, Metservice couldn’t forecast themselves out of a wet paper bag, and instead of having sun most of the day, it was overcast with the odd sprinkle. But it made for a nice moody walk amongst the clouds.
The first bit to get over with is to get to the end of the Canaan paper road. Then a section through your first taste of Neinei (Dracophyllum) amongst Beech (Nothofagus) via rough 4WD track that is more like a stream bed. A quick dash through Manuka (Leptospermum) sees you at the Wainui Saddle. On your left, a one hour walk to Wainui Hut, straight on: our objective.
It’s been rather gentle up to now, so the sudden change of pace is obvious, and I found myself catching my breath a few times on the way up. The bush opens up a number of times and you can look back onto the Canaan Downs and the farm that you skirt most of the day. In fact, when you get to the top of the ridge, a sign entices a 2 minute walk to a lookout, where you get to see the whole area unobstructed. But it’s not what I came for – fence posts and farmed land is what I am trying to leave behind. So I turn, and that’s the last we see of civilisation.
The topo map shows Moa Park as a large open area, so I expected to pop out of the trees to enjoy a bit of a table land-type of environment, but instead it is an undulating track through a mix of beech and Neinei with a few boggy bits and exposed roots making progress a little slower. You do cross a lovely little stream which is wall to wall moss.
After the recent wet and windy weather, the old Neinei leaves make a carpet to walk on, and as the rain drained away down the track, it has accumulated in mounds around tree roots and rocks.
Just as you start to wonder when this Moa Park thing is going to turn up (my GPS wasn’t consulted, and my map was in my pack), you suddenly see Moa Park Shelter poking from the bush up ahead, and you’re at an obvious junction.
Even though I am going to Mt Evans, I hop the stream and go visit the old hut. An experienced tramper told me that this hut was so run down, it had newspaper in holes in the walls to keep the weather out. As the hut is so close to Canaan Downs (2 hrs) and Wainui Hut (3 hrs), it was decided to downgrade it to a shelter. This means they took out the fireplace and the bunks. The DOC Intentions Book is worth a browse – some colourful comments are added, including declaring war and asking Jesus for intervention!
These days, the Moa Park Shelter still looks rough, but I bet it is home sweet home when you get there when it is late in the day or the weather packs in. So after the obligatory photos, I retraced my steps back to the junction to look for the entrance to Mt Evans.
Knowing it was there, it wasn’t hard to find, but you wouldn’t see it if you weren’t aware there should be a track there. The first 200 m were already a bit overgrown and the odd fallen tree makes progress a little slow. What gives you confidence are the regular orange tin lid markers guiding the way – no need for a bush bash – yet. Soon the track opens up, and once you get on top of the ridge, it opens for easy travel to “Mt Evans”.
Mt Evans is generously named, as it is simply the highest part of the Evans Ridge – no Aoraki / Mt Cook mental images needed here! In fact, if it wasn’t for the topo or GPS, you’d walk past it.
Walking past it is what I did, as the track passes the summit by 110 m, and my curiosity got the better of me. And I was rewarded less than 200 m later by a pass through the marble where the track goes over the ridge and continues on. In the middle of the pass: a tree. With a very old National Park sign still attached. As the track quickly dropped down on the other side, I lost my appetite for exploration and turned around.
When my GPS said the summit was 90 degrees from the track, I was looking at fairly open Beech forest with a gentle incline. Only 30 m up left. So after a few minutes of picking the path of least resistance, I found myself on another marble outcrop. And I couldn’t go any higher. Mt Evans had been “conquered”.
Time for some lunch and a poke around to see where I could put the geocache. I boiled the billy and a nice cup of soup accompanied my sandwiches which were made on the spot – I was carrying way too much food, but I’m trying to condition myself to getting used to the weight after the Red Hills to Beebys bush bash where I felt the weight a little too much.
Not having seen a single form of animal life up to that point, I seemed to become the local circus attraction to the birds. Very close encounters with Robins (Petroica australis australis), Tomtits (Petroica macrocephala) and Fantails (Rhipidura fuliginosa) followed, but of course none of them would stay sitting 40 cm from my face – as soon as the camera came out they were off again.
As expected no views – except one meagre glimpse of Tasman Bay towards Marahau through the trees, so I set to finding a spot for the cache to be placed. I found a natural alcove between two stone ridges a mere meter from the true summit. Placing another rock on top and adding some forest debris made it perfect.
Job done.
Turns out I spend an hour kicking back, and it was time to head back. As usual, with gravity suddenly on your side, the trip back seemed a lot easier, and it was in quick time I found myself back at the junction. Thoughts about popping to Porters Rock were rejected – I hadn’t brought a torch (ahem!) and I couldn’t afford to get stuck without light on an overcast day.
Wasn’t looking forward to all the roots again on the way back, and I was especially weary of the boggy spot where I managed to slip off a wet log and get my foot a little wet on the way in. Somehow I couldn’t find it the 2nd time, so I must have been improving.
A break at the stream this time to inspect the feet, swap socks, and have a drink before heading over the ridge and down into Wainui Saddle. On the way down I was reminded that the knees were still not recovered from the last trip, but it would soon be over.
As I approached the car park, I spotted bum and workers van. It was their trip I had gate crashed after all! Having dropped the pack by the car, worker came out to say hi and to ask if I had seen bum running past. Nope. How was that possible? I suspect he must have passed me as I was having a break near the stream – I had walked along it for about 20 m, and I was sitting with my back to the track. What are the odds?
Not long after, bum was seen running back down. He had returned from putting a cache near the Moa Park Shelter, at a close view point apparently. Excellent – it means I’ll have to come back here to do that cache in the future. Both caches will be a great reason for people to make a day trip out this way.
Had I seen the Kea (Nestor notabilis) on the saddle?
My thoughts unprintable. What rotten luck to have missed the Kea all day. Never mind, many more chances in future, no doubt.
After an extended chat, I left bum and worker to their holiday and headed into Takaka for a burger. It was that or noodles, and why do it the hard way if you don’t need to?
Early bed time followed. Tomorrow – a trip to Rawhiti Cave.
1 cache placed, 0 FTF, 0 found, 0 DNFs.